Use PPM Meter For Growing Weed Indoors – And Grow Bigger Buds!

Learn how to use a PPM Meter so you give the right nutrient levels for each stage of growing your Marijuana, ensuring better yields and bigger buds at harvest …


  1. wait till you mix all the nutrients to add pH Up or pH Down according to your testings because it will change after you put in the nutrients and if you feel the ppm's are pretty low add a pinch of Himalayan salt to your five gallons bubbling with air stones and for flour make a nutrient tea on the side that you had you do on top of your regular nutrients like a 300 part per million nettle schizandra goji berry tea with reishi in there for the buds to go super well

  2. since you want microbes and bacteria in your natural good soil you probably want a pH at 6.8 to 6.5 and you probably want to use half the nutrient dose that they recommend and you'll be all Salient for cruise control brother

  3. Hey man look into potassium silicate its basicly ph up but it also has a nutrients in it that do a bunch of shit for your plants its the same price and way better than regular ph up

  4. When looking at the color of your ph solution, I would suggest you use a bright white piece of paper behind when comparing it to your chart. The fluid tends to absorb the light color of whatever is behind the vile, changing the actual color appearance a bit. You should use a digital meter anyway. Much more accurate, and you should ph up or down after you have added all of your nutrients.

  5. Dude, please at least make an effort to learn what you're doing before making video's teaching other people bad advice & potentially damage their plants.
    There are loads of videos by experienced credible growers on U-tube, giving proper tuition's. What in God's name made you think that after a few months of, getting things wrong, you'd graduated to "teach" other people (how to get it wrong) on U-tube.
    There is more information out there than ever right now, if you realty care about your grow, do the research.
    Honestly my friend, I'd go back to watching "how to" vid's, rather than making them.

  6. You should only adjust ph after adding all nutrients. Nutrients tend to bring the ph down (more acidic). Also, your ppm is way too high for those scraggly plants. Bring it down below 500 ppm and stop watering so much. 1/2 the recommended dosage of what the supplier recommends for nutrients.  Let the soil dry out completely between watering. You should be able to pick up the bucket and feel if it's light and dry our heavy with water. Also,  your soil was probably full of nutrients to start. Many soils will test over 3000 ppm on the first runoff rinse – not good in my opinion unless you don't plan on using any nutrients for over a month.

  7. This is how I feed my plants on how tall they are from soil. If they get nutrient burns on their tips, you should bring down the ppms by 100. Hope this helps

    0-2inches 50-200 ppm
    0 inches 50 ppm
    1 inches 100 ppm
    2 inches 200 ppm

    3-6 inches 300-600 ppm
    3 inches 300 ppm
    4 inches 400 ppm
    5 inches 500 ppm
    6 inches 600 ppm

    7-16 inches 600-1100 ppm
    7 inches 600 ppm
    8 inches 650 ppm
    9 inches 700 ppm
    10 inches 750 ppm
    11 inches 800 ppm
    12 inches 850 ppm
    13 inches 900 ppm
    14 inches 950 ppm
    15 inches 1000ppm
    16 inches 1100 ppm

    17-48 inches 1200-1600 ppm
    17 inches 1200ppm
    24 inches 1300 ppm
    31 inches 1400 ppm
    38 inches 1500 ppm
    45 inches 1600ppm

  8. oh man those plants look SOOO unhappy man…. dude, the soil itself has enough nutes in it. you're using soil and you're saying 900 ppm is good? You]re COMPLETELY overdosing your plants, and then adding all that ph up and down is adding MORE salt to the fertilizer…… You didn't need MORE nutrients here, you need to flush the soil of ALL nutrients because you were using too much, nbot too little, when you use too much it will lock out the nutes and give a deficiency making it seem like there isn't enough food, yet giving it food makes the problem worse, the plants in this video did not mke it I imagine.

  9. Your nutrients will be acidic, you should NEVER have need for PH down in soil……….

    Ah see you learn this yourself in this very video….. now yu've added salt in PH down, MORE SALT in the nutrients, then MORE SALT in the PH up………… that's not good breh…..

  10. while this video is older and you have probably figured this out by now, a decent ppm to aim for would be around 600. also you may want to transplant those into a larger pot. they will become rootbound before long. kudos on doing what you can to become a better grower. keep up the good work.

  11. If you are using tap water make sure to let your water sit for atleast 24 hours. That way all the chlorine in the water will disolve and you wont be feeding your plants any harmful chemicals.

  12. um you ph your water after adding all the nutrients and you never up your ph after downing it or down it after upping it lol.. take ph down and mix it raw with ph up and watch what happens, it also fucks your nutrients all up look it up 

  13. you have a brilliant mind.. and I like your videos.. they make sense… one thing though..I think you need a tripod then you can use two hands to complete the videos… yet did your plants spout healthier from your new experiment.. ?

  14. ppm is the cake and the ph is the cherry on top to have em be all they can be!!! right ladies and gents? esp when not using the organic line. from general hydro. when using the flora series u must MUST have it dialed right.

  15. your description has errors.. first, EC stands for electrical conductivity. and a tds and ppm meter are kind of the same but read (convert) differently.. they are ran off the EC scale and converted by a function.. the TDS is on a scale of .500 and the PPM is on the .750 scale and both read differently even though they read the same data (salts or conductors in a solution AKA: your nutrients) also there is no need for supper cropping? well, why not?? (: apply these tactics to supper cropping and your left with even more massive results! that's the goal, right??

  16. I also have plants in the ground. you can't measure effluent (run off). So water is always 5.5ph going in. I do fert with nutes probably a little on the light side, because my plants perspire much more. So flushing is real real real important. OGs tend to burn easy, and taste nasty harsh if they hav the smallest amount of nutes left. My plants look fat, saggy and sickly (yellow leaves) at week 8, which is great! I bet the NL will take more nutes. and ill do a few diff feed levels, Enjoy ur day!

  17. Oh yeah, and the starting ppm of water, 200-350 will be calcium and other salts that WILL still collect around the roots and on the walls of the container. So this is why cal/mag is important also PH of 5.5 to counter the salts. I like the calmag from general organics its more gentle and forgiving then calmag plus. PH the water after you add nutes 😉

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